Of atranques and comparsas: this is the carnival of Xenerais do Ulla

There is no doubt that Galicia delights us with a wide gastronomic and cultural variety during the days -and weeks- that its long-awaited carnival lasts. The Galician Entroido, in addition, has a multitude of protagonists: the screens of Xinzo, the cigarróns of Verín, the ladies and galáns of Cobres, the peliqueiros of Laza, the boteiros of Vilariño de Conso or the Xenerais do Ulla, of which we offer you today a small glimpse of its vast tradition.

The Comarca do Ulla is made up of two provinces and four municipalities that meet the bed of the river Ulla: A Estrada, in Pontevedra, and Teo, Vedra and Boqueixón, in A Coruña. This area, close to the Galician capital, was called by the writer Ramón Otero Pedrayo as "Compostela's orchard and garden". Thus, this group of localities has its high point of the carnival with the "atranques" of the Xenerais. And, to them, the councils of Silleda, Touro and Vila de Cruces are added "for the joint promotion of the Traditional Rural Carnival of the Xenerais da Ulla".

The origins of the Xenerais of Ulla

The first references to the Xenerais are found in the 70s of the 19th century. In those years, an illustrious politician from Santiago, Alfredo Vicenti, published in El Heraldo Gallego a series of articles entitled "En las orillas del Ulla" (On the banks of the Ulla) in which he recounted the formation of a carnival troupe in Oca (A Estrada).

It is also believed that this figure would be inspired by the armed clashes that took place in the area throughout the nineteenth century: the fight against the French invasion, the revolution of 1846 and the various Carlist wars. In one way or another, these conflicts brought with them the ridicule of this figure.

What do the Xenerais do and how do they dress?

Although there are small differences between the Entroido of some parishes and others, there are certain figures that remain unchanged. In the first place, the great protagonists: the generals. Dressed in nineteenth-century military uniforms, they wear a tricorn with feathers that inevitably remind us of a peacock. They are mounted on horses that are also decorated.

Next to them, we will find the couriers, who wear a shirt with tie, warrior and pants similar to old military uniforms. On their heads is a gorreta, a circular cap woven with wire and colored beads.

In addition to these, there are the standard bearers, who wear military uniforms, usually sailors; the king and queen; the main choir, made up of young people usually dressed in Galician costume; and the choir of old people.

The most awaited moment is when there is a halt or atranque, an instant in which a dialectic confrontation takes place in pairs in which current social issues are made fun of.

Although the Xenerais have already begun to ride, there are still many days left to enjoy this traditional figure of the carnival of the Ulla region. Check here the complete program.